Ermitage (marsanne blanche)
As with all vine varieties, the marsanne grape most probably initially originated in Persia. We then lost trace of it and found it again in the Côte-du-Rhône where it has been cultivated for hundreds of years, probably bought over by the Romans. Its arrival in Valais dates back to the middle of the 19th Century. It was there that it was named "ermitage", as a tribute to the land of Tain. Hermitage or marsanne covers about a hundred hectares.
Marsanne is another late vine variety (3rd period), and the vines are very demanding. They insist on being planted in the sunniest zones, otherwise the grapes will only produce mediocre wine. The same problem occurs if these rather fertile vines become overloaded. These vines have no problem setting fruit, but are sensitive to powdery mildew. Towards the end of ripening, they can also become sensitive to botrytis.
Beaker pruned, traditional in Valais, the marsanne vines are easy to recognise thanks to their twisted horns. Their leaves are large, thick, pentagonal and roughly bubbled. The bunch of grapes is big, often winged and looks like a flattened cone. The spherical, greeny white grapes often bear beautiful hint of copper. Originally, marsanne vines were often planted with roussane vines. Roussane vines, which ripen earlier and are less fertile than marsanne, have almost disappeared today.
Marsanne grapes produce a rich and full-bodied wine, with complex flavours such as white truffle and raspberry alcohol or forest fruits. This wine benefits greatly from being aged in barrels. Marsanne grapes have an over-ripening capacity which is above average. Its sensitivity to botrytis combined with the climate in the Valais makes it possible to obtain high quality syrupy wine. Complexity, balance and aromatic richness allow it to rival greater vine varieties. The great marsanne wines improve as the years go by.
There is a lot of marsanne to be found in its country of origin, France. In 10 years, the surface area which it occupies has gone from 406 hectares to 1121 (figures from 1998). It is mostly grown in areas near the Rhône (in Drôme, Ardèche, Savoie) and also in Languedoc and Provence. In Switzerland, marsanne is only grown in Valais and covers 37 hectares, a figure which has remained unchanged for several years. Marsanne vines can also be found in Italy, California and Australia.
A full-bodied, rich wine, marsanne goes wonderfully well with gastronomy. Enjoy it with grilled salmon, fried fish, but also with veal or poultry in a sauce. Chicken served in a white sauce with black truffles or turbot braised in raspberry vinegar are even more delicious when accompanied by the flavours of marsanne. When over ripened to make a dessert wine, marsanne is perfect with cheese sprinkled with parsley, foie gras or even desserts made with forest fruits.